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Builder News

Click on the links below to view these helpful articles:

Thinking of Building a Home?

Where do I begin?

New Build or Existing Home, Which is Right for You?

How to Select a Builder

Glossary of New Construction Terms

Thinking of Building a Home?

Here are some things you should consider...

A home is probably the largest purchase you will ever make. So you should give careful consideration to getting the house that best fits your lifestyle.

One option is to consider building a new home. There are many quality homebuilders in Central Ohio with many floor plans and options to suit your needs. Whether you are thinking of a condominium, your first home, next home or your last home, Columbus area builders will have a floor plan and pricing to suit your needs.

And shopping for a new home has never been easier. Teresa Butler can help you through the process. Why use Teresa? The advantages of having Teresa help you purchase a new home are the same as those for purchasing a resale home . . . knowledge of the market, help in finding the perfect home quickly, expertise in contract writing/negotiation, and closing assistance.  The  builder has a professional representative watching out for his/her needs and you need the same expert representation. 

Is there an advantage to not being represented by Teresa in buying a new home? No. There is no financial advantage for you to buy directly from the builder. Builders have a "single-price" policy, meaning you will be charged the same price whether your interests are represented by a Realtor or not. Just as in any resale, the Seller/Builder pays your Realtor's fee. 

Buying a new home is a little more difficult and time-consuming then buying a resale. Teresa can professionally guide you through the process. Teresa has experience working with builders and has access to a database of information about subdivisions, floor plans, etc. Teresa is also familiar with new home warranties and builders purchase contracts. And she will provide professional advice on how to hold the cost down while adding amenities that will increase your home’s value.  Teresa will also help you arrange the best financing to fit your financial goals and budget.

In addition, you will be given information on neighborhoods and schools of the areas you are interested in.

It is important that your interests be professionally represented when you are entering into a contract for a new build home. These transactions are complex and the contract details must be exact in order to protect you and to ensure that you get exactly the home you want!

Most importantly, you will be provided dedicated, personal service throughout your journey throughout the homebuilding process.

Let Teresa put her knowledge and experience in the new home business to work for you. Call today for a no obligation consultation to get you on the path to building your dream.

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Where Do I Begin?…

The decision to purchase a newly constructed home can be an overwhelming decision. You will be faced with the exciting opportunity to build your dream home and at the same time, work with a builder and learn a whole new language in new construction terms. How can you make this process easier? Start with asking yourself broad questions and work down to the details.

What type of home do you want?
As you look for a new home, consider your current needs and tastes and whether they are likely to change. If you are single; do you anticipate getting married? If you are married; do you plan to have children? If you need flexibility, you may want a traditional single-family home that you can later expand. A condominium or cluster type may better suit your needs if you prefer to avoid yard maintenance. If you or a member of your household has a disability, your builder may be able to build special features such as ramps, wider doorways or more accessible counter heights and electrical switches to better accommodate your needs.

What style of home do you want?
Do you want one floor living such as a ranch, where all the bedrooms are on the first floor? Or would you like a Cape Cod where the master is on the first floor and there are more bedrooms on the second floor? Or would you prefer a more traditional style such as a colonial home, where all of the bedrooms are on the second floor?

What characteristics do you want in your new home?
Do you want a large or a small home? How many bedrooms and baths do you need? Do you prefer open spaces or smaller, cozier rooms? Is a large, well-equipped kitchen important? How about a family room, a study, a computer room, an entertainment room, or a workout area? What special amenities are important to you? Would you like a basement, a fireplace, a porch, a deck or skylights?

How will you select the area?
Choosing the right location for your new home is important. Evaluate the different communities and make sure that you ask yourself the right questions. Are medical facilities and shopping close by? Do you want a home with a private yard or a neighborhood with a lot of people? Is freeway access important and how long will your drive be to work? Do you need to be close to the airport? Are there schools and churches close by and is there recreation available?

Where will you find new homes?
Once you determine the areas you would consider important in your home search, check out the internet, newspapers and magazines to find out what is available. Attend home shows and research area amenities. Then select a Realtor® to discuss different neighborhoods and areas that interest you, and they will take you to the available developments in each area.

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New Build or Existing? Which is Right for You?

This is a great time to start thinking of your next home. One of the major decisions is whether to purchase a new or an existing home. Before finalizing your decision, consider the following advantages of new and existing homes. 

Building a New Home:

When building a new home you can choose your floor plan, subdivision, lot, features and colors according to your tastes and budget. New homes usually include the latest technologies, wiring, flooring, kitchen conveniences, the latest in bathroom fixtures, room designs and floor plans, etc. In addition, you will get all the builder and manufacturer warranties to cover your home to take away the worry of expensive repairs in the first years of your home. Many new areas will experience greater appreciation in value as the community grows. 

There are a few things you will have to consider when building such as, how long will it take to build the new house? Will you have to move to temporary housing between selling your existing home and the completion of your new home? Are you the first home being built in a new area? What will be built around the area you wish to build in? Will the community grow in a positive way to increase property values?  

Buying an existing home:

Because existing homes are often located in well-developed neighborhoods, you usually don’t have to worry about unexpected changes, such as large development projects.  

Existing homes generally have established landscaping, which can add value to the home. The home as usually settled and settling cracks and other settling issues have been addressed. Drapery hardware is usually in place which can save a great expense over having to install in a brand new home. Many times improvements have already been completed on an existing home such as finishing basements, adding decks, screened porches, patios, gardens, etc. Many existing homes are usually ready to move into thus saving an extra move between houses.  

Some things to consider when buying an existing home would be how much work you would have to do to change décor that does not fit with yours, repairs that have to be made and are values rising or declining in the area.  

There are many other issues to consider whether building or buying. For a free consultation, please call me, whether building or buying. With over 22 years in residential real estate, including working extensively with many local builders, I will be able to answer your questions and guide you along your home buying journey.

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How To Select A Builder

Now that you have decided you want to buy a new home, do you know how to find a builder who is committed to giving you the best value for your money? When selecting your builder, you’ll want to choose him or her as carefully as you will choose the style of your home and where you want to live. Teresa Butler can assist you in this process.

How to select the right builder
There are plenty of builders to choose from. In order to navigate through the vast sea of builders, it’s important to identify the type of builder that best fits your needs. Most builders specialize in certain construction methods or target specific markets. The following is a list of the most popular types of builders and the definition of those builders:

Production
This type of builder duplicates existing floor plans. Most builders in this category will allow little to no changes to the plans. If any changes are made, typically they will be non-structural changes. Production builders build in planned sub-divisions predetermined by price point.

Semi-Custom
This type of builder will allow changes to be made to their existing plans (including structural changes). Price point may be higher depending on the complexity of the changes.

Custom
This type of builder will allow a plan to be built from individual specifications such as, building off of customer’s personal plans. Generally, this may be a higher price point, as custom changes have not been proven and more personalization is involved.

Scattered-site
This type of builder specializes on building on your own lot and may fall under any of the above-mentioned categories.

Condominium
This type of builder builds housing units within a multi-unit housing development. Generally offers a great price point, especially for those not wanting the hassle of maintaining the exterior and yard.

Patio/Cluster homes
This type of builder of follows closely the concept of condominium building without the multiunit housing development. Typically these are single-family detached homes that have the low-maintenance benefits of condominium living without the multi-unit housing environment.

What to look for in a builder?
Once you’ve chosen the type of builder, look for the type of home you want and note who builds them. Make a list of the ones you like and visit the development with Teresa. Take a look around, and pick up the promotional material they will have available. Talk to your Teresa and the New Home sales associate about the builder’s history, the company’s mission statement and what its customer service response system is. Most of the information you will pickup will be oriented toward selling the home and will be written by the builder or someone the company employed.


Ask the builder for the addresses of the homes they recently built and take a drive around the neighborhood. Saturday and Sunday are good days for your tour since you are more likely to catch people at home doing yard work and chores. Introduce yourself and tell them that you are considering purchasing a home from the builder who built their home and that you are collecting random opinions of the builder’s quality and customer service. If no one is outside, don’t be afraid to knock on their doors. Try to talk with several homeowners per neighborhood, and don’t just rely on the views of one person. The more information you obtain, the better your decision will be.

In your search, be thorough, and don’t be afraid to ask plenty of questions. Before making your final decision, be sure you know the answers to these questions:
  • Is the builder established in the community where you want to live?
  • Does the builder offer a customer service program, and, if so, what does it cover?
  • Can the builder give you references from satisfied customers?
  • How many homes does the builder build per year?
  • Does the builder have a formalized building process?
  • Does the builder have an effective communication program, or local building industry association?
  • What is the builder’s warranty program?
  • Is the builder a local, regional, or national builder?
  • Does the builder have any complaints filed against it at the Better Business Bureau or local building industry association?
Remember that when you are buying a new home, you are not just buying a structure, but a package of services, and the quality of those services will have an impact on your enjoyment of your home. Do your research thoroughly, and you should have no trouble finding a builder who meets your high standards of quality.

Choosing the right floor plan and house style?
The following are factors to consider when selecting the right house style:
  • One story/ranch style is one main living level with stairs, basement (can be finished) or recreation rooms
  • Multi-level with first-floor master bedroom, other bedrooms above or below
  • Multi-level with common areas on first-floor, all bedrooms upstairs
  • Split-level with above-ground lower level for more useable space
  • Income property with all or part of the home to rent
  • House with guest house, outbuildings
  • House with professional office
  • Unique design- for aesthetics, light, energy efficiency, privacy
The following are factors to consider when selecting the right floor plan style:
  • Open – rooms flow into each other, many interior walls omitted
  • Partially open – generally open but with doors to close off specific rooms
  • Closed – most rooms with walls and doors for privacy, defined function and décor
Shopping for land?
Selecting the right piece of land is just as important as selecting the right builder. The following is information that will assist you in the process of land selection:

Working with Teresa Butler in Building Your New Home

Knowledge of land requirements
  • Exclusive access to some land/development and builders
  • Customized search
  • Saves valuable time
  • Able to locate hard-to-find properties
Defining your lot needs
  • First you need to consider who owns the land?
  • Buyer owns land
  • Has existing land
  • Takes out construction loan
  • Builder owns land
  • Builder/buyer takes out construction loan
  • Developer/group of builders own land
  • Your choice of several builders
  • Builder owns land until closing
Consider the traffic patterns that exist near your lot
  • Traffic/highway noise
  • How much I’m willing to live with
  • Do I like to have my windows open
  • Is this lot on or near a busy corner
  • At the end of a cul-de-sac where headlights will shine in your windows
  • Safe for children and pets
  • Easy access to:
    Main roads
    Work/school/stores

    Highway
  • Check at various times of day
What is the make-up of the area?
  • Are there school bus and city bus routes nearby?
  • What are the stores/commercial buildings that surround your lot?
  • Is there a gravel pit/water treatment plant?
  • Are the power lines near trees? Does the electricity fail often in this area?
  • Is the airport flight pattern close enough to be bothersome?
  • Is this an agricultural area with farm animals nearby?
Tax/zoning/covenants, research the following:
  • Taxes/tax rate
  • Architectural covenants/building requirements
  • Height/width dimensions
  • Distance from street
  • Style restrictions:
    • Paint colors
  • House price maximum /minimum
  • Other:
    • Homeowners association
  • Covenants:
    • Annual/monthly fees
    • Personal/association liability
    • Commonly owned areas
    • Pool
    • Grass/golf
    • Playground
    • Tennis courts
    • Community room
  • Other:
    • Zoning of abutting/nearby land
    • Zoning of total area of development
    • Future building affecting this area
Check the district services that are offered in your area
  • Schools that apply to you
  • Pre-school
  • Elementary
  • Middle/junior high
  • Senior high
  • Private
  • Fire station
  • What is the distance to the nearest fire station?
  • Is the fire station paid or volunteer?
  • Police station
  • What is the distance to the nearest police station?
Research the streets and utilities
  • Street
    • Is the street paved, or will it be soon?
    • At what cost/who is responsible?
  • Are there future assessments/improvements?
    • Impact fees
      • Tap fees. How much does it cost to turn on;
      • Water/sewer
      • Gas/electric
    • Driveway curbs lowered (if part of sidewalk), who will pay?
      • The city
      • The Owner
    • Utilities
      • Were these installed by builder?
      • Are there potential installation problems?
      • Are there any that I must install/pay for?
  • If so, what is the cost of installation
    • Wires
      • Above ground
      • Underground
    • At what cost
      • Who is responsible for laying them?
      • Is there cable/DSL available?
    • Municipal
      • Water/sewer available
      • What are the restrictions?
      • Future planning of utilities
      • Water rights (if not municipal)
      • Is there a currently existing well
      • What is the cost of digging a new well
      • Septic system
      • Research the soils test results
      • Location of easements
Soil/terrain
  • Soils and “perc” test done
    • By whom and what were the results?
    • Is there any special construction necessary?
    • Expansive soils
    • Underground water
Other
  • What are the drainage capabilities/problems?
    • Location for leach field/septic system
    • Location for well
    • Low-lying area
    • Drainage plan upslope
    • Is the land level or hilly?
What is the cost to level land?
  • For house only
  • For entire lot
  • Is it suitable for walkout basement?
  • Are the hills safe for children on bikes?
  • Radon/other noxious gases
  • Are there special building considerations?
What is the exposure of my house on this lot?
  • For optimum comfort and energy savings (natural heating and cooling)
  • Should front of lot face north/south/east/west?
  • Wind direction and where will it hit my patio, porch or deck, doors?
  • How is each side of house affected by:
  • Consider the sun’s heat from south, east, west
  • Cold and wind from north
  • Is the sun on my driveway (for snow melting in cold climates)?

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Glossary Of New Construction Terms

A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z


A


Aggregate
Gravel or rocks that are used in concrete.

Apron
The piece of interior window trim below the stool.

B


Backband
The outermost trim around an interior window or door opening.

Baluster
One of the vertical pieces of a stair or porch railing.

Baseboard
The piece of trim around the bottom of a wall.

Base Molding
The molding used along the top of a baseboard.

Base Shoe
A strip of molding, often quarter round, along the bottom of the baseboard.

Bearing Wall
A wall supporting ceiling joists or another wall above.

Board & Batten
Vertical wood siding consisting of wide boards and narrow battens that cover the joints.

Brick Veneer
The most common type of brick construction. The house is framed with wood and the brick acts only as an exterior sheathing.

Building Code
Local regulations established by a government body (e.g., city, county, state) that control the design, construction and materials used for buildings of all types.

C


Call-back Procedures
A planned approach to dealing with repair requests and warranty work requests from home buyers.

Cancellation
The annulment of invalidation of a contract or agreement.

Cantilever
A projecting beam that is supported only at one end.

Cased Opening
An opening between rooms trimmed with casing but without a door.

Casement Window
A window hinged along one side, so it swings out.

Casing
The trim around a door or window opening.

Cathedral Ceiling
Ceiling with two sides sloping towards the center of the room.

Ceiling Joists
Structural members that hold the lower rafter ends together. The ceiling joists provide the necessary surface for the ceiling in the room below and the floor of the attic room. Building codes provide tables for determining sizes and spacing for each situation.

Change Order
A change in the original plan of construction by a building owner or general contractor.

Chimney Breast
The projecting section of a wall above and on each side of a fireplace.

Cornice
A projection or overhang at the top of an exterior wall just below the roof. Also the molding at the top of an interior wall.

Cricket
A small, roof-like structure that is set behind a chimney to divert rainwater around the chimney.

Crown Molding
An ornate molding used at the top of an interior wall.

D


Dentil
One of a series of tooth-like blocks used in a row as decoration under a cornice.

Dimensioning
The standard method for showing distances, sizes and locations of all parts of a home on a blueprint.

Double-hung Window
A window with an upper sash that can be lowered and a lower sash that can be raised.

Dropped Ceiling
A false ceiling installed below an existing ceiling, often used to hide exposed pipes or ductwork.

Drywall
Pre-formed, paper reinforced gypsum board used to construct the interior walls and ceilings.

Ducts
Large pipes used to distribute air from a central heating or air conditioning system.

E


Eaves
The lower part of a roof that overhangs a wall.

Efflorescence
A white, powdery substance that sometimes appears on brick walls.

Elevations
Drawings which show the exterior style of the house. Elevation drawings are named to correspond to their location, such as front elevation, back elevation and side elevation. A typical set of working drawings has an elevation drawing for each side of the house. Elevations do not show interior details.

F


Façade
The front face of a house.

Fanlight
A semi-circular transom window over a door or window.

Fascia
A flat board that forms part of a cornice and covers the ends of the roof rafters.

Fiberglass
A cost effective insulation. Fiberglass insulation is set snugly between ceiling joints and between wall studs.

Flight
An uninterrupted series of steps between floors or between a floor and a landing.

Floor Plans
Simplified drawings of interior space within the home, usually for the benefit of the prospective home buyer.

Flue
A terra-cotta or metal lining for a chimney or furnace vent.

Fluting
Parallel decorative grooves in a column or pilaster.

Footing
A wide concrete pad which supports the foundation wall.

Foundation
The supporting structure for a building.

Furring
Wood stripes used to even up an existing wall for the attachment of paneling.

G


Gable
The triangular, vertical portion of a wall at the end of a ridged roof.

Gable Roof
The end of this roof terminates at a peak.

H


Header
A framing member used over a door or window opening.

Hearth
The flat, horizontal surface at the base and in front of the fireplace.

Hip Roof
The end of this roof slopes back towards the center of the house, usually at a 45 degree angle.

Hose Bib
An exterior water faucet.

J


Jamb
The inside of a door frame.

Joist
Structural members that are laid from foundation wall to foundation wall across the beam. Joists support the floor and are usually spaced every 16 or 24 inches.

K


Knee Wall
A low wall in an attic or half-story space.

L


Landing
An intermediate platform between two flights of stairs.

Lath
A building material of wood strips, metal mesh, or gypsum board used as a base for plastered walls.

Lattice
A framework of crossed wood or metal strips used as a screen.

Light
A single pane of glass.

M


Mantel
The shelf above a fireplace.

Molding
Decorative strips of wood often used to conceal joints.

Monolithic Slab
A flat concrete foundation that incorporates the footer & foundation slab in one pour. Sometimes called the “slab-on-grade.”

Mortar
A cement-sand mixture used to bond brick or concrete block.

Mullion
The vertical member between two adjoining windows.

Muntin
Horizontal and vertical strips that hold individual panes of glass in a window.

N


Newel
The bottom or top of a stair balustrade.

Nosing
The curved front edge of a stair tread.

O


On Center (O.C.)
The measurement or spacing of studs, joists, etc. from the center of one to the center of the next one.

Over Door
A decorative panel above a doorway.

P


Palladian Windows
A type of window consisting of a central arched window flanked by narrow windows with square heads; named after 16th century Italian architect Andrea Palladio.

Pane
A single piece of glass, also called a light.

Parquet
A floor composed of small blocks of wood arranged in a pattern.

Pediment
The triangular end of a gable; also the triangular top for a doorway or cabinet.

Pictorial Floor Plans
Illustrations drawn to give the viewer a perception of depth and realism of the home’s interior. They are used for sales and demonstration purposes. Pictorial floor plans are usually displayed in sales information.

Pier
A masonry or concrete column used to support a floor or porch.

Pilaster
A rectangular column that projects out slightly from the surrounding wall.

Plot Plan
A layout of improvements on a site, showing their location, dimensions and landscaping. It is generally part of the architectural plan of a house. It may also show the positioning of individual homes on lots in a subdivision. Simplified versions are often the key display in a new home sales office community.

Pitch
The angle of a sloping roof, usually expressed in inches of rise per 12 inches of run.

Plaster
A mixture of lime or cement and sand used to cover walls or ceilings.

Plate
The horizontal members of a frame wall. The sole plate is at the bottom of the wall; the top plate is at the top. Plate height is often used to refer to the ceiling height of a room.

Plinth
The square block used as the base for a column.

Porch
A covered area attached to a house but open to the outside on a least one side.

Q


Quarry Tile
Machine-made, unglazed tile often used for floors.

Quoin
A decorative stone or brick corner of a building.

R


R-Value
The ability of insulation to slow heat loss is measured by R-value, or heat-flow resistance factor. The more effective the insulation, the higher its R-value.

Rafters
Structural members that support the roof. They are connected to the top plates of the walls and the ceiling joists to create a triangular shape. A triangle cannot change shape unless one of the sides changes length. This cannot happen because wood does not stretch. This structural design prevents the roof system from being twisted by heavy loads or the wind.

Raised Slab
A flat concrete foundation elevated with concrete blocks and filled with compacted dirt before pouring slab.

Reeding
Parallel, convex decorations on a molding; the reverse of fluting.

Rise
The vertical dimensions between two stair treads.

Riser
The vertical surface of a stair between two treads.

Rock Clauses
A provision covering the unexpected encounter of rock during excavation. The excavating contractor does not absorb the additional costs of removing the rock.

Roughing-in
The preliminary stage of installation of plumbing, wiring, etc.

Run
The horizontal distance covered by a stair or roof.

S


Sash
Framework that holds the panes of glass in a window.

Scale
The relationship of an object to another object; the relationship of an object to the human body (human scale); the relationship of the size of a drawing to the size of the actual object.

Sconce
A wall-mounted light fixture.

Section Drawing
A drawing that shows an object as if sliced in half.

Shakes
Hand-split wood shingles with an irregular surface.

Sheathing
Sheathing is nailed to studs or rafters. It provides a base for finish materials such as siding or shingles. Typical sheathing might be wood, plywood, fiberboard, or paper and wire (for stucco).

Sheet Rock
See Drywall.

Shoe
A small piece of molding usually quarter round, used between the baseboard and the floor.

Sill
The horizontal member at the base of a window; the lowest member of the framework of a wall, sometimes called the mudsill.

Single-hung Window
A window with a lower sash that can be raised.

Simplified Floor Plans
Often called one line floor plans, simplified floor plans illustrate basic proportions and room arrangements. These are used mostly for sales brochures.

Site
A general term signifying a plot of land suitable or set aside for any specific use.

Slab
A concrete floor used as a foundation in homes without basements; any concrete floor, even if an upper story.

Sleeper
A wood member resting on a concrete slab, used to support and raise a finished floor.

Slope
The angle of grade as measured from a level surface.

Soil Stack
The main vertical plumbing pipe that receives waste.

Soffit
The underside of an overhanging cornice; the underside of an arch.

Sole Plate
The plate (i.e., bottom of the wall frame) is nailed to the floor system it rests on. The next floor is nailed to the top plate of that wall.

Span
The distance between walls supporting a beam.

Spec House
A home built for sale without a buyer designated in advance of the start of construction, with the goal of selling it during construction or shortly after completion.

Stack
The vent for a furnace.

Stile
Vertical framing member of a paneled door.

Stool
The shelf-like piece at the inside base of a window.

Stucco
A plaster, made with Portland cement, used outside.

Studs
Structural members of wall framing that run from floor to ceiling between the sole plate and the top plate. The most common stud size is the 2x4.

Subflooring
A structural element laid directly on top of the joists. Building codes dictate the required thickness of the sub flooring to provide minimum strength and rigidity.

T


Tabby
A type of concrete wall with a shell aggregate, sometimes used in coastal areas.

Terrace
A paved outdoor area, often raised.

Terra-cotta
A reddish-brown, fired clay often used for flowerpots, floor tiles, and ornaments.

Top Plate
A horizontal structural member in a wall. It runs the length of the wall, capping the studs and typing them together.

Transom
A window set over a door.

Trap
A U- or P- shaped bend in a plumbing pipe that prevents sewer gases from entering the house.

Tray Ceiling
A flat ceiling with the center portion raised.

Tread
The horizontal part of a stair upon which you step.

Trim
Decorative molding.

Truss
A truss roof system is a factory-built alternative to the rafter and ceiling joist method. Trusses are prefabricated roof framing members, designed by an engineer to span specific distances and carry specific loads.

V


Valley
The internal angle where two roof planes meet.

Vapor Barrier
Paper or plastic material used to keep moisture from moving through a wall.

Vaulted Ceiling
Ceiling with one side sloping towards the opposite side.

Veneer
Thin sheets of wood, such as the layers in a piece of plywood.

Veranda
A long covered porch.

Vestibule
An entry foyer.

W


Wainscot
Paneling, usually on the lower part of an interior wall.

Weephole
A small drain hole in a masonry wall.

Window/Door Schedule
A tale on the working draws that lists the size and quantities of windows and doors required

Wood Floor System
Foundation elevated with concrete blocks supporting wood floor joist, girders and subfloor.

Working Floor Plans
Often called detailed floor plans, these plans give detailed construction information. Working floor plans give the trades people, such as carpenters, plumbers and electricians, the information they need to build the home.

Z


Zoning
The control of land usage by city, county, or state authorities with power to limit the property use to specific standards. Also a term used by architects and designers describing the functional uses of areas within the house, i.e., zoning for entertainment

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Teresa Butler
Real Living HER
 
614-565-8161
 
TeresaButler@columbus.rr.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Last modified: 09/30/2008 10:49 PM